Forum Title: Replacing Bad Replacement Windows w/ New Construction
Been browsing this forum but couldn't find an answer specific to my issue. I greatly appreciate in advance anyone that can offer advice. Long story short, I bought a house that 'featured' new windows. They are terrible bargain-bin replacement windows, cold air blows right through them, they fog up all the time. In short they are terrible. I pulled a window apart to take a look at what I was dealing with, and to make matters worse it looked like they replaced rotted out windows with replacement inserts. There are a ton of videos on flashing, slealing and installing a new construction window. There are far less on trimming the outside, and none that I could find on replacing a window with a new construction. My biggest question is how do I handle the trim on the outside? On my house the vinyl siding is endcapped and trimmed around the window opening. On most pictures I see, the window trim goes OVER the vinyl siding (a look I prefer). So my two big questions are: 1) Can I work around the existing vinyl siding, or do I have to pull it all off around the window? 2) Is there a reason one would chose to trim the siding around the window, as opposed to trim the window over the siding? If I keep the siding trimmed as is, I'm not sure a new window would match up. If exterior trim goes over siding, I can cutback the siding however I'd like and cover up the edges. Little questions: 1) I'm not sure I have house wrap, I don't think I do (house was built early 80's). The old windows don't seem flashed at all. Without house wrap, do you flash over plywood exterior? 2) I saw someone else posted a very similar picture in this forum stating it was hard to tell where the rough opening is vs. the old window frame. I imagine once I rip the window out it will be much easier to see. Last advice: I wanted a decent window at an affordable price. It seems like the Anderson 200 series at Home Depot could fit the bill. Any opinion on this model? Here are some pictures:
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: JOY TERRY (Evansville, IN), 01/11/2019

I've painted a lot more wooden screen doors than I've installed but I think most screen door hinges mount on the outside of the wood [not recessed] I double checked my back porch screen door and that's how the hinges are on it.

- MISTY FIGUEROA (Carson, CA), 03/03/2019

The 200's aren't bad, but they are limited in size, color, and hardware options. Still better than what you have I imagine. One thing is, they don't have brickmold, any space between the window frame and siding will have to be filled by you onsite. This can be done with any of the different PVC trim products available or you can use wood wrapped in aluminum coil stock like you have now. Depending on what kind of options you select I would seriously look at moving up to 400 series. They seal better and are more repairable in the future. 200's can't be reglazed, whereas 400's can. The 400's use a better balance system as well.

- YVONNE CURTIS (Coeur d'Alene, ID), 02/14/2019

Ok, I did a little more literal digging. I pulled back some sheetrock to see exactly where the rough-opening is. To my surprise, the rough opening is far bigger than the window inside. It appears the original window was elevated above the rough-sill. Even more surprising, electrical wiring is run underneath this window. I can't imagine this is right, or normal? I will mention this window sits just above the cinderblock foundation as seen in the outside pictures. Is it possible the foundation would interfere with a window placed within the rough-opening? (the window is framed out over the concrete)?? This is a curse or an added bonus, as I'd love to have a 38 tall 32 wide window as opposed to the 36x32 currently in place. Here are more pics:

- WILLIE BARKER (Sunrise, FL), 02/20/2019

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